Spain Chronicles: Madrid Nights June 21, 2006

I have to say getting the bedclothes wrenched off me and then being unceremoniously dragged off the mattress does nothing for my mood regardless of my own strigent instructions for getting me up at ALL cost! Mayhap it has something to do with the zeal that Shahzi and Mir followed through with them that irked somewhat..

But Madrid beckons, and soon I find myself with the 2 stooges either side, exiting the 3rd floor flat that is home in one of the oldest quadrants of the city known as “Madrid de los Austrias” trooping down winding cobbleways and narrow streets back towards the Sol, equivalent of the Times Square New York, where Madrid converges for the new year countdown. (And 3 does not 3 stooges make! So, spare me the 3 stooges’ jokes… although I could get away with being Moe Nyuk Nyuk Nyuk!) Ahem!

The first landmark we pass is Plaza Mayor. Plaza or squares are busy city intersections now predictably lines with tourist attractions, bars and decorated with statues such as this one or fountains such as the Sol. We are headed to El Retiro; Parque Del Buen Retiro. And this strolling zone is gorgeous even at night. People out for a restful look at the city walk along the boulevards curving through lush lawns and trees, over and under mini bridges arching over streams of flowing crystal clear water. Head further and we come to a lake stunning in its still reflection of a clear summer night. Getting ice cream on Mir’s tab and then it’s time to fold your legs and settle to watch a puppet show in Tiritilandia (Puppet land).

It’s weird but I never liked puppet shows. I always thought them to be kind of grotesque and never forgot the irony that the puppet masters themselves are puppets in the hands of a greater power as we all are… But just for a while, watching 2 brightly painted jesters ‘bonk’ and prod each other and despite the Spanish language and not knowing a word of it, was fabulous. The fact that I ate cotton candy, peanuts and ice cream and didn’t get sick was worth celebrating which we did around midnight as we walked out of the park in search of real food.

Walking past the various bars and cafes now open and in full swing line the various walkways as we head up past a sight that has to be seen at night which is a gate known as Puerta de Alcala lit up in hues of gold and blue light against the night sky. Reminds me of the glory of the gates and doorways around the old cities back home in Rawalpindi, Lahore and Peshawar and what they look like against a sunshine day, let alone a night. Sitting down to a meal at a terraza and enjoying an array of Spanish finger food with a variety of tortillas, pasta, and tapas accompanied by a fresh, cold cana, it is time to absorb the feel of the city known for it’s night life. Half the fun in eating in such an environment is the people around you. Well dressed Madrilenos (the city dwellers of Madrid), easily distinguishable from the tourists in their casuals, mostly shorts, t-shirts and sandals. It is amazing listening to the strains of music filling the air, and watching random spins and dips of people of the street as a particularly catchy strain is heard and the applause, laughter and acknowledgement for the moment is absorbed into the style of the city.

And, all the while between noticing who’s got it and who’s not, our discussion centered on how to plan the what and where of my visit. It turns out that I have the full day Thursday to see Madrid and Friday will be spent with mamoon and mumani (Shahzi and Mir’s parents) who live some way out of the city in a town called Carabanchel, and returning to Madrid on Friday night to catch the morning train to travel south to Toledo, Granada, Gibraltar, and Cordoba before returning.

But the best part is sitting in Chocolateris San Gines for a sinfully, drippy, gooey, piece of heaven kind of hot chocolate… The kind that reminds you of the warm, comfort of pure adulterated happiness with each sip of the thick brown concoction feeling it slide down your throat… Decadence in innocence! And with them to dip into happiness, deep-fried long doughnuts.. YUM YUM YUM! And right at this moment, weight be damned! I’m happy!

And that feeling stayed with me, as the 3 stooges, Shahzi, Mir and I, walked back singing ‘Iris” off-key, sounding way times better than any version I ever heard of it, specially when Mir interjected in Spanish!

I can’t wait for morning…

And when it came…

Thump!! Cushion on target!

“Uth stupid!! Your breakfast is ready and waiting”
“Get lost…”
Toxic let loose (Mir’s new pup)
“Okay, Okay! Call him off!! I’m up.. What time is it?”
“7:00 a.m.” BIG Grin
“MIR!! YOU MORON! YOU DESPICABLE EXCUSE FOR A HUMAN!! I HATE YOU!!”

Chasing after with a pillow in hand, and Toxic behind… Coming to a stand still at the sight and smell filling the small living room… Following my nose and my eyes to the big mug and plate sitting on the kitchen counter set for 1…

Chocolate… Heaven… Bliss!

“Mir…”
“Kya hai..?” Kind of pissed in an artificial way..
“YOU ARE A PRINCE AMONG MEN AND I LOVE YOU!”